All Chef Must Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.